First, there are tolls for many of the roads, especially the super-highways (Autostrada). Tolls average about €1 per 20km on the Autostrada, other tolls are usually in the €1-2 range. Make sure to carry cash/coins for the tolls, although the Autostrada toll machines seem to accept credit cards.
Example: The tolls for driving from Sorrento to Cortona added up to about €25
Driving in town is a lesson in being an alert driver. Stop signs are treated as optional by Italian drivers, speed limits are almost completely ignored, and you will be passed by motorcycles and scooters constantly. Intersections are hazardous. I general you should follow the signs/rules and pay active attention to the cars around you. The general philosophy it seems is to make sure you don't hit anyone, and they will make sure they don't hit you.
In town driving is hit and miss actually. For example, if you are going to an old hill town like Cortona, Assisi, Perugia, etc, there are massive restrictions on driving inside the city walls. In Cortona you can only drive inside the city walls with permission, for example. Most of the towns have parking lots just outside the walls and many have escalators from the parking areas up to the city. Parking comes in four flavors..
1.) Street parking with white lines - Free parking
2.) Street parking with blue lines - Pay Parking, there will be a pay station nearby
3.) Street parking with yellow lines - restricted in some way, handicapped, residents only, etc.
4.) Gated parking lots - usually you get a ticket on the way in, pay a cashier later and use the paid ticket to get out.
One thing you may notice as you navigate around the country is that street signs are more geared toward destinations than routes. So instead of following signs in Seattle for I-5, to get to the highway, here you will follow signs for Roma or Firenze, or Cortona. Those signs will lead you to the most direct path, Autostrada or otherwise.
Do not attempt to drive inside any walled towns, and don't even think about driving inside Rome or Florence or other large cities.
Once you've left town and got yourself out on the Autostrada you will experience a different kind of highway. As our guide Giovanni put it, know the rules, but do what you want. First problem with the Autostrada is that the speed limit is unclear. Basically, wherever a speed is NOT posted, the limit is 130kmh, about equivalent to 80mph. Drivers in Italy keep to the right as they should unless they are passing which is very nice. We found it easiest to stay in the right lane on 2 lane roads and middle lane on 3 lane roads.
In Italy, the left-most lane is universally dubbed the Mercedes Lane. As you cruise along at 140kph in the middle lane, Mercedes, Audi, Porsche, and BMW's will pass you at an average of 160kph all day. If you are in the left lane for any reason (passing is the only good excuse) and a car comes up behind you, it is expected that you will move to the right as soon as humanely possible. Oh, and there is really no concept of cutting someone off. Assuming you are going to the same or higher speed, it is normal to move over in front of someone else with very little distance. The first warning for you to move to the right is that there is someone behind you. The second warning is when that someone flashes their high beams (flash-to-pass). If you still aren't moving over, you are now a jerk.
Motorcycles will do pretty much everything that would be illegal in the US. Passing between lanes is extremely common. Even mopeds do it. Driving on the shoulder is also very common for bikes. Just ignore the bikes and pay attention to where you are going.
Italians, especially the Mercedes/Audi/Porsche/BMW drivers employ a little seen technique called the Italian Straddle. They will cruise along over the lane marker, consuming space in the left and middle lane simultaneously. This allows them to move left to pass quicker, while simultaneously being able to quickly move right if someone is attempting to pass them.
Signaling is nearly non-existent. It's the law, but no one does it. Just watch where you are going and everyone else will watch where they are going.
Be decisive when you drive. Don't start a lane change and then give up, don't start to enter an intersection, then stop. Once you start, just go. (obviously within reason)
Nearly every car in Italy has a diesel powered engine. This means that most do not accelerate quickly, but all seem to cruise at high speed just fine, and get good mileage. So far our Renault has gone over 600km on 5/8 of a tank of diesel. There is a surprising lack of diesel exhaust smell around here though. Pretty much every car in Italy has a manual transmission also, in fact you will pay double the daily rental rate for a car with an automatic. Learn to drive a manual, or pay more, those are your options.
All this said, while city driving is a bit hair-raising, highway and country driving is relatively sane and I actually enjoyed cruising up the highway at average speeds that would net a reckless driving ticket in the US.
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